Facialist Iwona Grzebyk is making a name for herself as ‘the machine queen’ facialist. We recently had her in La Suite x Union Square Laser Dermatology for 3 pop-ups, and the feedback was so strong that we’ve invited her on permanently (along with some of her favorite devices)! Below we interview her on the power of high-tech facials that turn up the – literal – dial on beautiful, glowy skin.
How did you start to incorporate technology into your facials?
You have to keep in mind that 25 years ago, there were no devices. So I started with the foundation – my hands – learning the latest European massage techniques that would properly cleanse and really work the skincare into the skin. It was all about getting the lymphatic system working with pressure and movement. Even today, I still think that being an exceptional facialist starts with your eyes and hands. Now, technology has brought us to new heights… opening delivery channels in the skin, at deeper depths, for better product penetration and triggering natural intracellular reactions.
What was the very first device you were ever excited about?
Light emitting diode therapy. LED works by emitting infrared lights, causing heat, in different wavelengths/spectrums, which have different skincare benefits. There is a specific wavelength range for each color to ensure it is both safe and effective. Blue light kills bacteria and is great for clients with acne. Red light is most commonly used for anti-aging because it promotes circulation and stimulates collagen. White light penetrates the deepest and works to tighten and reduce inflammation. Although it’s considered the “dinosaur” of facial technology (laughs), it’s still an absolute must because it really works! I like to bring it into the 21st century by combining it with a 100% collagen biocellulose mask.
What is YOUR personal favorite?
Combined sonophoresis and iontophoresis. Most clients don’t know it by name and call it the “mad scientist” chemical peel and mask (laughs). Sonophoresis is a device where ultrasound is used to increase the absorption of topical acids into the epidermis, dermis and skin appendages. Once delivered into the skin, iontophoresis allows for ionic molecules to be activated when stimulated with an electrical charge to further propel them into the skin. This method is vastly superior to standard liquid diffusion, as repeated ionization offers a more concentrated collection of nutrients delivered deeper than liquid diffusion can achieve. Ultimately, what clients see is their skin instantly becomes evenly textured – any textural bumps immediately go down, pores look tighter, skin positively GLOWS. I do this on myself twice a month.
What do you recommend for clients looking to try several technologies?
The Oxylight Facial. The technology includes Oxygen with Light Therapy, Micro-Current and Light Stimulation, Diamond Microdermabrasion, Biosonix Ultrasound, Negative Pressure and Oxygen Therapy. It harnesses energy to restore your body’s natural currents, improving lymph and blood circulation while stimulating fibroblasts that encourage collagen production. Just keep in mind, if you have problematic skin, I have to address your tone and texture before we can dive into targeting muscle tone, fine lines and wrinkles, pore appearance and skin tightness.
What is a technology not many New Yorkers are clued into yet?
Hands down, dermoelectroporation (DEP). I can count on one hand the number of New York plastic surgery and dermatology practices using it, but in Europe, it’s everywhere. I always say, every device has its day! Dermoelectroporation uses water-based intercellular channels to promote transdermal delivery of collagen, with continuous, very low reversed polarity current. The sensation is not uncomfortable, but my clients always jump when they first feel it working because it irrigates the skin. DEP may not be the best option for a relaxing facial, but it’s effective! I adore this treatment for clients with dehydrated or compromised skin; skin looks lit from within afterwards!